Imagine a countryside with perfectly manicured vineyards, elegant cypresses and honey-coloured stone farmhouses in valleys of epic beauty, where long-held traditions are passed on from one generation to the next. This is what the UNESCO heritage listed site of Val d’Orcia in Tuscany is all about. It is here that we find an ancient pilgrimage road that zig-zags throughout its territory, the Via Francigena, once considered the high way of the Middle Ages. From the sacred millennium thousands of pilgrims set off on a pilgrimage that would take them from Canterbury, France, Switzerland and Italy then on to reach the Eternal city. A pilgrimage to Rome -resting place of Saint Peter and Paul- used to be just as popular as going to Santiago de Compostela. It had to be done on foot and the average of a daily journey was 20-25 kilometres. A continuous passageway of pilgrims allowed for the communication of different European cultures which later led to the consolidation of the political, cultural, artistic and economic framework. It was Goethe who said that the conscience of Europe has its origins in the pilgrimage routes.
The Via Francigena in Tuscany starts from il Passo della Cisa at Radicofani and extends for more than 300 kilometres, going through breathtaking countryside and major cultural landmarks. It is a great touristic and cultural itinerary internationally recognized and approved by the European Parliament in 1994.
One of my favourite cities along the Via Francigena is the medieval city of Siena. With the historic centre almost entirely closed to traffic, urban trekking allows for peaceful walks and the discovery of many gems. Stop by one of Europe’s oldest hospitals, Santa Maria della Scala (www.santamariadellascala.com) and admire the famous frescoes that adorn its ceilings. This was a place that housed the pilgrims from France and northern Europe to Rome. Don’t forget to collect your ‘Pilgrims Credential’, a document that certifies your pilgrimage. Whether you want a physical or spiritual uplift, there is something for everyone in following the footsteps of medieval pilgrims.
By Trish Clark, Travel guide author Guide to the Camino
